Katirisala

glutinous black rice and brown butter coconut custard

This Katirisala - a Bugis-Makassar steamed cake from Sulawesi Selatan - comes together in two steamed layers: black and white glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan, then a soft palm sugar coconut custard layer on top. I finished the top layer with a bit of brown butter - not traditional, just something I liked for the toasted note it brings alongside (and I just love brown butter).

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Glutinous Rice Layer

• 125 g black glutinous rice

• 125 g white glutinous rice

• 150ml coconut milk

• 1/2 tsp salt

• 1 pandan leaf, knotted

• Water, for soaking

Palm Sugar Coconut Layer

• 175 g palm sugar (gula jawa or gula melaka), finely chopped

• 4 eggs

• 250 ml coconut milk

• ½ tsp vanilla extract

Brown Butter

• 40 g unsalted butter

Neutral oil, for greasing the pan

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Method

1. Prepare the glutinous rice
   Rinse both the black and white glutinous rice separately until the water runs clear. Combine, then soak in plenty of water overnight.
   

   The next day, drain the rice. Using your hands, gently rub and squeeze the soaked grains to encourage them to break apart slightly - this helps the rice cook more evenly and bind later.

2. Cook the rice in coconut milk
   Add the coconut milk, salt, and pandan leaf to a wide pot or wok and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Add the soaked rice and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid is mostly absorbed and the rice is thick, heavy, and cohesive. Remove from heat.

3. Steam and press the base
   Bring a steamer to a steady boil.

   Steam the cooked rice for 15–20 minutes, until fully tender and glossy. Remove from the steamer.
   

   Lightly grease a 15 cm square cake pan (or similar) with neutral oil. Transfer the hot rice into the pan and compress firmly with a spatula until very compact and even.
   

   Return the pan to the steamer and steam for 15 minutes to set the base.

4. Make the brown butter
   While the rice base is steaming, make the brown butter.
   

   Place the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Let it melt, then continue cooking as it foams. Swirl occasionally. When the milk solids turn golden brown and smell nutty, remove from heat immediately. Set aside to cool slightly but keep warm and fluid.

5. Make the palm sugar coconut layer
   In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, chopped palm sugar, and vanilla until well combined.
   

   Add the coconut milk and mix until smooth. Pour in the warm brown butter and whisk gently to incorporate.
   

   Strain the mixture through a sieve into a clean bowl. Whisk lightly until just foamy - do not over-aerate.

6. Steam the top layer
   Carefully pour the palm sugar mixture over the hot glutinous rice base. Cover the pan and steam for 30 minutes.
   

   During steaming, open and close the steamer lid every 5 minutes to release excess steam and prevent the egg layer from puffing.
   

   The cake is done when the top layer is fully set and firm to the touch.

7. Cool and slice
   Remove from the steamer and allow the cake to cool completely in the pan. Once fully cooled, slice with a sharp knife.
   
   Note: The texture should be dense and softly set, with clear contrast between the grainy base and the smooth top layer.